The trail was mostly flat, with the usual dips into ravines...
2:39pm Thormork Hut. I'm borrowing a pen to write, since I lost my pencil last night somehow…..
The alarm came at 5:15am, and blue skies greated us outside the tent. However, the volcano to the south was still shrouded in cloud, and today's "clouds and rain" forecast lowered my expectations of a clearing. Thormork is one of the highlights of this trek, sitting below the heavily glaciered volcano, but I feared we would be shut out of the views today. We ate an oats/cereal breakfast at 6am, trying to be quiet, as we were one of the first tenters up. This morning (and last night) was the warmest so far on the trek. By 7:30am we were packed up and hitting the trail. The same couple that started hiking just before us yesterday were ahead of us on the trail again today. I loaded my pack with the kitchen gear, last day of food, tent, and water, allowing Wendy a lighter load for this last day on the trail.
The trail was mostly flat, with the usual dips into ravines...
Wendy crosses a sream and heads towards a glacier...
A look back at camp (circled), 20 minutes into our hike...
We set out east across several ravines to a "vertigo inducing" bridge across a gorge. The bridge was scenic, and I remember reading online that some people were nervous about the exposure on this section of the trail, but it was no biggie at all. We had passed the couple ahead of us, and got to experience the bridge crossing to ourselves briefly. Took lots of pics.
We downclimbed to a scenic bridge, and spent some time enjoying the view...
Several pics from the bridge area (continued below)...
Across the bridge, we turned 180 degrees and hiked west, eventually climbing to a pass, where we could see the gorge from our hike last night. After a brief stop at the pass for Twizzlers, we headed south along an ashy shelf, that had more small ravines. The sun was hot, and it was t-shirt time today. BTW, I realized Twizzlers (a long time hiking staple) are pretty darn heavy, especially compared to dehydrated fruit. I may have to abandon my Twizzler fix in the mountains…
We headed towards the pass on the right of the 2nd pic...
Atop the pass. We ascended from the left...
Heading south, hoping that we had finished our last big climb of the trek...
I couldn't help feeling competitive between the groups on the trail. I liked to compare our pace against others, and wondered if other groups did the same. I was impressed with several older couples on the trail that were moving at an impressive pace. There was a lot of group leap-frogging on the trail the past few days.
We walked south along the gorge (same gorge we visited last night), and found a scenic place to stop off the trail for lunch. We were still well ahead of the "train" today (stream of hikers).
A peculiar looking mountain popped up on the horizen...
A bit of greenery along the trail...
I wanted to call this "Bottle Cap Opener Mountain"...
Our lunch spot, over looking a gorge...
The wind and cold started to kick in, and we brought out the long sleeves. A hazy ash storm loomed further to the south, so we readied our handkerchiefs, before continuing our post-lunch hike.
More flat, fairly dull terrain...
Some black sand (ash) along the trail...
Soon we reached a large flat expense, where we had no choice but push through the ash storm. Despite our handkerchiefs wrapped around our face, and sunglasses, the ash found a way into my eyes, and even into my mouth. At times we had to turn back against a large wind gust, shielding our faces from the ash, but there wasn't much else to do, but continue on, hoping it would fade soon.
Eventually the trail led us to more ravines, and the landscape became more hilly. The air cleared up, and we could stow the handkerchiefs. After crossing a stream filled ravine, we hiked a large hill, that would have led to cool views, but not with all the clouds today.
Uh oh, looks like another climb ahead, guess we're not done gaining elevation...
A look back at me, as we climb a big hill...
Another look back at me...
A look up as Wendy approaches the top of this pass...
We could see the river crossing in the valley ahead. A few people were scouting out the best way to cross. Meanwhile, Wendy sings Billie Jean, while listening to her iphone. Yesterday and today were iphone days for Wendy, given the long stretches of barren terrain.
We descend down the soft ashy trail, kicking our heels in, like descending fresh snow. The long descents on this trek have been easier than anticipated. Only the dips from the ravines have been sketchy at times.
We could see some hikers scouting out a place to cross below...
By the time we reach the river, the hikers ahead of us are on the other side, and leaving the river basin. We scope the river, and cross a shallow thread in our boots. Footprints lead up stream, so we follow them to a wide portion of the river, where we eventually decide to cross. The wider the river, the less forceful the current should be. I attach my flip-flop/sandals, and we don't bother with gaiters this time, since the warden had mentioned the crossing was knee high. I'm not confident my rolled up pant legs will suffice, so I take off my pants and wrap them around my neck. Wendy unzips her pant legs (an advantage of convertible pants). In the meantime, it starts to rain. So much for aiming to stay dry during the river crossing. The river looks a lot stronger than it did from the pass above.
A look across at the other hikers, who had finished crossing, and were making their way back to the trail...
This is where we decided to cross the knee deep stream. Cold water!
We use our poles and wade across. It wasn't too bad, though I felt the water knock me a bit at the deepest part. We cross diagonally with the current. Once across, I continue walking through two more shallower threads of water, finally reaching the other side of the river. Wendy's feet get numb after the initial crossing, and she waits a bit before continuing across the next two small sections. We sit down on the rocks, in the light rain, drying off our feet and re-booting ourselves. Just an hour of hiking remaining to reach Thorsmork hut (the bus stop). We don't bother putting on rain pants at this point, since we'll change into dry clothes at the hut soon. We've been making great time on the trail today.
From the river, the trail ascended through forest. More uphill? There were more climbs today than I was expecting, given the overall loss of elevation from point to point today.
Forest scenery was a change of pace...
Some purple flowers line the trail, before we reach the top of another pass...
Looking back at Wendy as we continue across the pass...
We climbed to the top of another pass, which would have stellar views of Thormork valley and the volcano, but we could barely make out some of the low hanging glaciers and waterfalls. Bummer. At least the rain stopped. We descended down into the valley, and after a bit of confusion about where to catch the bus (a signpost pointed to "buss" on a different path) , reached Thorsmork hut ~2pm, in the drizzle.
Dreary views. Could see a couple waterfalls in the distance...
Descending to the hut, where we end our trek...
Upon reaching the hut, it wasn't immediately clear that the bus stopped here. I searched in vain for the warden, but fortunately found some fellow hikers who informed me that the bus would be here at 3:20pm. Good thing we left early, since I had expected a 4pm bus. We waited in the warm, dry hut, and changed into dry clothes. Several other hikers were waiting in the lounge as well. There wasn't much floor space, but we managed to re-organize our packs, putting all the dirty laundry in Wendy's pack, since she could start laundry while I picked up the rental car, once we returned to Reykjavik. I found some time to borrow a pen and work on my journal (lost my pencil on last night's hike), until I heard a call, "Buses are coming!".
We head down to the river and find a small 4x4 bus with a swarm of people putting their gear in the luggage compartment. It soon becomes clear that there isn't enough room on the bus for everyone. The young bus driver calmly tells everyone that a 2nd bus will be available at the stop ahead, and that some people will have to stand in the aisles in the meantime. Wendy found a seat, I stood in the aisle. The bus wove across the stoney basin, cutting through multiple streams. In the hut, we had seen photos of vehicles that got stuck in these streams during high water. Certainly a treacherous road.
Soon we join up with another bus, which frees up a spot next to Wendy for me. We ride out on the 4x4 road below the cloud shrouded volcano, catching glimpses of glaciers and jagged mountains through the fog. The bumpy road rocks us to sleep. At least the heavy clouds make me feel like I'm not missing much by taking a nap. When I awake 20-30 minutes later, having rounded the volcano, I see blue sky! There are sheep on the bright green grass. When I next wake up, we are stopped at a gorgeous waterfall! The driver stops and gives us 10 minutes to explore (and use the restrooms).
But the skies were clear on the other side of the volcano, where we saw this cool waterfall...
There was a trail leading under the falls, but I got too wet as I neared it...
The clouds move in as the bus pulls away, and joins the Ring Road (Rt 1). Back on pavement. the bus stops at a small town gas station, where we transfer to a regular (non-4x4) bus for the rest of the trip back to Reykjavik. During this break, Wendy runs across the street to a store, while I watch our packs. 10 minutes later, she returns with 2 cups of skyr, apples, smoked salmon, bagged salad, and eggs. On the next bus, we feast on our food, while jealous passengers (no doubt) watch us. We add our remaining dried fruit from the trek, into the skyr. Sure beats ice cream from the gas station! Well done Wendy! Our feast helps pass the time as we ride under the clouds, and some rain, back to Reykjavik, arriving at the bus terminal ~7:30pm.
The next bus back to the hostel is in 50 min, so Wendy flags a cab. I buy a bus ticket to Keflavik (45 min away), to pick up a cheap rental car at FIT hostel. 1600isk, and leaves at 9pm. Need to kill 70 minutes. Try using the ATM, but the machine says my card is expired, and eats it! I haven't used it since Norway a year ago, and it might have been de-activated (even though I got it approved for use in Iceland this month). The attendants can't help me. Oh well, at least Wendy has her ATM card...
I borrow a pen, and write more journal (as you can see, I wrote a lot today). I realize I could play some solitaire, and make the cards worth carrying along for 5 days, but no... I'm contemplating the rest of the trip. 8 days with a car, and a rough itinerary at this point. Time to return the pen...
Back at city hostel, Reykjavik...
A bunch of us wait next to the bus, outside in the chill air, with the evening sun blocked by clouds, for the driver to appear and open the luggage compartment for our bags, so we could hop on the bus. He didn't arrive until 9pm, to which I requested a stop at FIT hostel, which he seemed to contemplate for a moment, and then agreed. 5 minutes later we departed, making a few stops along the outskirts of Reykjavik, before heading on the highway to Keflavik. I shut my eyes, trying to rest for the return drive, after an exhausting day/week on the trek. On the fifth stop in Keflavik, I got off a couple blocks from the hostel, and hiked along the sidewalk, and across a grass field in full trek apparel (boots and pack). I arrived at exactly 10pm, the reservation time of my rental (good planning!). After a lengthy dialog with the hostel rep, he gave me the keys to a Ford sedan. It was full of dents, and looked pretty decrepid, but it was large, and surprisingly, it was an automatic! A luxury for Europe. As I was about to head off, the hostel guy said he forgot to swipe the credit card, so I gave it to him, and he handed me a receipt. I was a few miles onto the highway, when I realized I couldn't find the credit card. I stopped at an exit and couldn't find it anywhere, so I drove back to the hostel, and the guy came out with the card. Very glad I decided to double check, before reaching Reykjavik… I was back on the road at 10:50pm with the ocean on my left, and a cloud covered sunset to the north. I tried my best to read the map and drive through Reykjavik in search of the hostel. The road signs were somewhat helpful, and I only took one wrong turn, arriving at the hostel ~11:30pm. Wendy, having run the laundry, was sitting in the lobby, using wi-fi on her iphone. We retrieved stuff from the lockers, and somehow got my full deposit back (free locker). Stayed in a 6 bed dorm again. Met a friendly Spaniard, who offered me an extra razer, and gave me the advice: "In Iceland, if you make a mistake driving on the road, you die," referring to the exposed guardrail-less roads. Good to know… I took my 1st shower in 4 days. It was a long shower . After a midnight feast in the hostel kitchen of eggs, sausage (W only ate half of the 8oz of sausage she carried on the hike), and leftover food donated from past hostel residents (cheese, mushrooms, onions), we realized we didn't have a concrete plan for the next 8 days. The weather forecast was not looking good for the week, and was giving me 2nd thoughts about the itinerary.
After much research and thought, we finally decided to do the "Golden Circle" tomorrow after lunch in town, and stay in Reykjavik another night. At 2:30am we returned to our rooms, trying hard not to disturb the 3 other sleeping residents. We planned for a 9:30am wake-up, to try to catch up on sleep, and make the 10am checkout.