New Zealand 2011 trip, Day 40, Feb 11th: Hump Ridge Track Day 2 - Okara Lodge to Port Craig Lodge

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5:02pm, Port Craig Beach

Writing this entry while hanging out on rocks, watching dolphins in the bay…

I was up at 6am to check out sunrise ops. It was cloudy to the east, no pink skies, so I layed around in my bag. Went to the bathrooms, and noticed a star in the sky to the southwest, where it was clear. So I hiked up to the loop ~6:30am, and caught some pink skies a semi-scenic condition. I brought the tripod up again, but didn't use it. It's a brick this trip…


Back on "The Hump", hoping for sunrise colors...

I see Wendy walking up the boardwalk to join me. The clouds continue to thin above, but there is a thick wall to the east, blocking the sun. We return to the hut, just in time to hear the breakfast bell 1 minute away from the hut. There are bowls of porridge, cooked apples, brown sugar, and milk. I cook up some of our cereal blend too, and have several bowls. The milk is a treat to have in the huts.


Okara Lodge is below on the left...


Wendy takes a photo of me next to a pool...


Heading down just in time for breakfast. Departing Okara Lodge (2nd pic) as the sun emerges...

The sun emerges by the time we're packed up, and on the trail at 8:48am. We decide to make the loop hike one more time, given the sunny skies, before descending down the boardwalk trail, enjoying the views from the trail we missed yesterday.


We returned up to "The Hump" one more time in the sunlight, before starting today's hike...




Gorgeous place here. Wendy stands ready to head back down. We would be climbing across the green hills in the background, down to the ocean today...


A look back at the rocky "Hump"...


A look ahead as we enter the stunted forest...

We enter a dreamy forest, which is my favorite forest yet! It's a ~15 minute stretch of fairy tale growth, and at the end, I ask Wendy, "Can we do it again?!?" I tried taking a bunch of 14er card pics in it.


This forest made a good backdrop for my 14er cards ($6.95)...


The forest was ultra enchanted...



Love the artsy trees here...


The trail was non-ending boardwalk so far today...


A look back at Wendy, and "The Hump" in the distance to the left...


Lots of steps on the board walk too. Poles weren't too useful this morning...


A zoomed in shot of "The Hump", looking back. We started our hike from there this morning. The boulders are plainly visible...


We'd be descending down to the ocean today, eventually...


I climbed a rock, and looked back at Wendy, and "The Hump" in the distance....


More boardwalk snakes ahead along the ridge...

We walk through more stunted beech tree forest, following more undulating board walk across the hills. Eventually we spot Frog Rock (aptly named), and Luncheon Rock in the distance.

Got some crappy pop radio song in my head today, unfortunately, as we make a climb up to luncheon rock.


Lots of stairs today, with all the undulations on the ridge. The chicken wire made for a great non-slip surface. Wendy spots a bird...


2nd pic: Luncheon Rock on the left, Frog Rock on the right...


Zoomed in shots of Luncheon Rock (1st pic), and Frog Rock (aptly named)...


The frogs eyes followed us for awhile. A look back (2nd pic) shows frog rock in the bottom left corner (not looking like a frog anymore, and the "Hump" in the distance...

We stop for a snack, and use the bathroom nearby, and drink some water. Then we descend gradually through a long stretch of forest, under cloudy skies.


A snack on Luncheon Rock...


Wow, "The Hump" looks way far away in the distance...

Eventually we reach private land, and walk through a new growth forest (due to logging in the early 1900s). The trees are stick poles here. A "2hrs til Port Craig" sign greets us, and we turn left, following the old tram way.


More cool forest on the descent. I stand next to a twisted tree...


Switchbacks in the boardwalk. Finally, after 4.5hrs of hiking, the boardwalk ends in the new growth forest (and private land)...

This used to be a logging zone, as three wooden viaducts remain as relics. One of them (Percy Viaduct), is the world's tallest still standing wooden viaduct, at 125m long, and 36m high. These viaducts are a pride and joy of the Hump Ridge Track, and were hardly accessible before the new trail opened.


These wooden viaducts, built in the 1920s for the logging industry, are a signature of the Hump Ridge Track...


We encounter the 2nd (and longest viaduct). A cool looking bird sits on the railing...


1st pic: Looking back at the ~400' long, ~110' high Percy Burn Viaduct (the world largest wooden viaduct). 2nd pic: The 3rd viaduct we crossed...


Looking down at the 3rd viaduct. These were reconstructed just as they were originally built, with solid, 100'+ wooden beams from Australia. Next up, a swing bridge...

The tramway is lined with railroad ties, which have occasional metal knubs sticking an inch out of the ground. Gotta be on the lookout for these. This long, muddy section is among the most boring stretches of trail we've hiked in NZ, though occasionally the tramway is lined with pretty trees.


The tramway was long, muddy, and boring. But these 2 pics make it look pretty scenic...

Lots of mud, and legs are super tired, but there's no place to stop, so we keep moving. We just want to be done and at the next lodge. Normally we are faster than the advertised times on trail signs, but we hiked as fast as we could, and it took us just over 2 hours to reach the hut, from the "2hr" sign. They need to update that sign…

At last we arrive at Port Craig, and check out an old school house that got converted to a DOC hut ($15/night, cheap!). However, we're staying at the new lodge nearby, full of amenities.


Moss lining on the tramway. A look at the old Port Craig school-house, now a 3 bunk high DOC hut...

When we arrive at Port Craig Lodge, the manager goes into a long spiel about the history of Port Craig, but we're exhausted and only interested in finding out where the bunk rooms are so we can unload our packs and rest.

There are only 2 bunk rooms open here, so it will be more crowded in our room tonight.


A look at Port Craig Lodge from our bunk room door...

Hector dolphins have been seen at the beach every day here, we're told, so despite our achy legs, we re-lace our boots, and walk down the 129 steps(!) to the beach. That's a lot of steps after a grueling 19km hike.

We spot some dorsal fins in the water, then Wendy screams, "Look!", and we see dolphins doing jumps and flips, which quickly rejuvenates our spirits. We scamper out to a rocky pier for a better look. There is one dolphin that does ~15 flips in a row. WOW!

We wait around and see more jumps, the highest which looks to clear ~3'. Soon the action dies down. Wendy shouts out, "I'll give you my tunafish if you jump!".


At Port Craig beach we caught a dolphin show...


Wendy stands out on the rocky pier...


Wendy takes a photo of a dolphin (small speck in the distance). Then back to the lodge...

7:53pm Port Craig Lodge.

After the dolphin show, we climb back up to the lodge, and start a lengthy dinner. The lodge lady seemed surprised we saw them jumping, so maybe we were lucky to catch it. We started dinner with 5 poached eggs, which we dumped into the dehydrated WG mix, with cheese. Yummy… Then rehydrated asparagus soup, with cheese, and added dehydrated brussel sprouts. Then a huge yam serving with a tuna/tomato 7oz can. Lastly, honey water…


Plenty of boardwalk at the lodge. The bathroom sinks only had cold water taps, but there was hot water taps in the kitchen...


Poaching 5 eggs (glad to not have to carry those anymore), and rehydrating some asparagus soup (2nd pic). Our rehydrated WG mix (refried beans, and veggies, with poached eggs added) sits on the side...


The lodge was roomy, and had magazines. A look at our asparagus soup, with dehydrator brussel sprouts added in (very good!)...


Finally, rehydrated yams, and a can of tuna with tomato sauce. I think the local post office here doesn't get much service...

The 7pm lodge talk was delayed until 7:30pm, when the last hikers arrived. We learned about the history of Port Craig. 150 men and families lived here in the 1920s during a brief logging era. Now the area is a ghost town, save for the lodge and relics of old. The viaducts were built to carry out the wood, and had recently been restored shortly before the track opened (they had been completely rotten). The logging industry here was a total failure, since only 1/3rd of the wood was exportable, since wind twisted the trees, reducing the quality. Lots of people, including the owner of the business and his brother died, in many cases due to stubbornness. The whole thing operated for only 3 years.

Wendy is washing up in the sink. No shower today. We're both very tired. Still one more big day left tomorrow (17km).

9:40pm Port Craig Lodge

Wendy ate a big bowl of rehydrated pumpkin pie. I finished my PB. There are recycle bins in these lodges (another plus on this hike). We recycled our PB and tuna cans.

The lounge is empty by 9pm. We use the hot water in the kitchen sinks to wash up. No sunrise views here (supposedly).

We need an early start to finish the hike, and drive back to Queenstown tomorrow. Breakfast is at 7:30am. We'll try to be packed by then.

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