11:30pm Uiginish Farmhouse, Dunvegan
I was up at 7am, an hour before the alarm. The room was toasty from the heater, and outside, the skies were grey with clouds, but the mountain tops were clearly visible across the Loch outside our window. I checked the score of the Broncos game (they won 31-19!), and layed in bed for awhile. We eventually got up a little before 8am, and began packing our belongings to make a quick get away after breakfast. We had filled out a breakfast menu checklist last night, and received our order in the dining room: Juice, porridge, muesli, stewed prunes, grapefruit, yogurt, toast, poached eggs, ham, sausage, and kippers. It was delicious.
A look at our B&B's flowery landscaping outside...
I had visited with the other folks staying at the B&B. They were motorcycling from the northern most point to the southern most point of Great Britain.
I had been debating endlessly in my head what direction to go today, whether to hike in Glen Nevis, and take the bridge to Skye, or go the scenic coastal route to Mallaig and take a ferry to Skye. In the end we opted to aim for the 10:50am ferry to Skye, which gave us 90 minutes to reach Mallaig. The sun was casting shadows through the high cloud layer, as we drove through Glenfinnan (glad we were able to fit it in last night, even if briefly). The drive to the coast was gorgeous, and we opted to take the alternative scenic coastal route to Mallaig, even if it meant missing the ferry. The weather was pleasant, and the forecast for rain later in the day made us appreciate the moment. We passed some small white sand beaches along narrow windy roads past quaint coastal towns.
More pleasant scenery on the way to the coast...
This small grove of trees in the Loch looking very enchanted. Some fairy tale creatures must live there...
Reaching the coast...
Cows and beaches, as we drive up the coast...
To our surprise, we still arrived in time for the 10:50am ferry, and only had a short wait before the 30 minute voyage to Skye. Clouds were overcast, but visibility was good and the rain held, which made for an enjoy time on board. Wendy and I had flashbacks to our previous ferry crossings in Norway and NZ, feeling the same excitement for exploring what awaits after the landing ahead.
Scenes from the ferry...
A look towards the mountainous mainland...
The town of Armadale, on Skye, approaches (2nd pic)...
Fresh off the ferry, we visited the Armadale Castle & Gardens ($11), just a couple miles from the terminal. We walked around the gardens, visited a museum, and weathered the rain that began to fall. The castle ruins were pretty, but not spectacular. Wendy found a boysenberry bush and grabbed a handful. The gardens were nice to walk around.
A look at the Armadale Castle, home of the MacDonald clan...
We took a walk through the forest...
Saw some cool trees, and found boisenberries...
More garden views...
After that, we drove onto a one lane road north to Tarskavaig & Tokaviag to visit the Dun Scaith Castle ruins. The drive was super scenic and remote, winding up and over red heather covered hills. Sheep were scattered throughout, often close to the road. Wendy would yell "baaaahh" out the window on several occasions, to get the sheep moving.
Eventually we reached the castle on the northern coast, and made the .75 mile walk to the ruins. Wendy first photographed a parade of cows. This remote castle had that same sense of mystery that Kilchurn had yesterday. The rain had largely stopped, but sprinkled again. We're enjoying exploring castle ruins much more than the newly restored pay-castles.
The trail following this dirt road. Wendy enjoyed the cow parade...
These cows might have been Wendy's highlight of the day...
The walk to the ruin went past someone's house, and along side some marshy grass...
The path was faint leading the castle, as we got nearer, that enchantment factor kicked in, and we were eager to explore...
Wendy stands at the entrance to this 13th century castle ruin. To the north lies the Cullien mountains (draped by clouds)...
These 2 pics are taken at the same time. 1st pic shows the arch of the bridge (and me behind). Not much left of this ruin...
Wider view to the north...
Wendy near the bridge...
1st pic: A look across the bridge shows a gaping hole. One would have to climb across the walls on either side to enter. Not something we felt comfortable doing...
We took another one lane road back to the main highway (gorgeous again). And continued up to the base of the peninsula. We then took another one lane road across the mountainous peninsula to Kylerhea, where there was a Otter Haven viewing area. This turned out to be a bust (just saw the head of a seal popping out of the water), but the drive was scenic.
Cows and scenery on the drive back to the main road...
Not a bad place to have a farm...
The road to Kylerhea was narrow and windy, and swamped with red heather. Wendy looks for otter, in vain...
A couple shots from the otter haven walk...
The sun was now actually breaking out of the clouds! The drive up to Dunvegan was sunny! This wasn't in the forecast, but we'll gladly take it. I filled up on gas in Broadford (~$8.50/gallon). Gas mileage was about 37mph, which isn't that great for a European car, but this car is roomy and handles well.
A view up the Trotternish Peninsula, our destination in a few days...
We drove past the Red and Black Cullions, and up north, with idyllic views of grassy coastal hillsides, ocean, and towering mountains. It was tough to decide whether to stop for pics, or drive on to make Neist Point by sunset.
The Black Culliens came into view...
Heading towards the Watternish and Duirinish peninsulas...
Breath-taking scenery from the road...
Sheep near the road...
A pano shot of the Black Culliens, with lots of sheep grazing on the field in the foreground...
We found a great stopping point to take photos.
Wow, what a classic Skye moment. Sheep, sea, grass, mountains, blue sky. Ok, maybe "classic" should be cloudy and rainy...
We stopped by our B&B ~6:15pm, and were happy with our room, and it's view of Dunvegan across the Loch. We then made the 20 minute drive (again windy one lane road) to Neist Point at the end of the Duirinish peninsula, with clear skies overhead, but clouds on the western horizon. A handful of other people were there, walking up the grassy slopes, finding a scenic spot on the cliffs to gaze down at the postcard lighthouse scene.
I setup my tripod and camera, but before I could get it ready, the sun dropped below the clouds, never to appear again. Still, it was a gorgeous sight to behold, and Wendy and I were plenty warm in our layers to withstand the chill wind, and occasional sprinkles. We saw white specks of sheep in the distance grazing on grassy hill sides.
The sun sunk into the clouds, which was pretty by itself. We were hopping it would pop out below the thick cloud bank, but no avail...
A waterfall in the distance. A close-up of the lighthouse...
One last shot before we turned back. It was windy and chilly, and started raining hard just as we arrived back at the car...
Eventually we turned back ~7:45pm, and returned via the windy sheep-lined road to Dunvegan, where we had dinner at the only place open, the Old School restaurant. It was a fine dinner of mussels, lamb shank with honey prunes and couscus, and a lemon posset for dessert. We may eat there again tomorrow night. It rained during our dinner, but I saw a sky full of stars and the milky way on the way home.
Back at our B&B, we're trying to plan for tomorrow. Wendy turned on some live Denver sports talk radio on the internet, to hear some excitement about Peyton Manning's first win as a Bronco.
Up late writing this journal. Need to filter the hundreds of photos Wendy took from the car today.