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2:40pm Ferry from Uig to Tarbert.

Up at 7:15am, 30 minutes before breakfast. The weather forecast for today had improved greatly overnight. We packed up our belongings to make a quick getaway after breakfast. We planned to return to the Quirang and hike up to the Table.

Breakfast was the usual fare. We were out the door by 8:30am, and stopped in town to check out MacKenzie's Bakery. Wendy was hoping to get some soup and food for lunch later, but to our dismay they didn't have anything more than sweet goods and breakfast items available. Instead we drove to Co-op, and bought a chicken pasta salad for later. Also grabbed some more $ from the ATM.


The view of Portree from our B&B, before breakfast...

Then it was time for the familiar drive up the eastern side of the Trotternish peninsula. Old Man of Storr was blocked by clouds, but it was mostly sunny out. The roads were empty, and I sped up the gently rolling one lane highway. As we reached Kilt Rock, Wendy suggested stopping for another photo, this time in the morning sun. When I reached for my camera in the back seat, I realized I had left it in the breakfast lounge at the B&B! Doh!!!

Immediately I turned around, and sped back over the rolling highway (more zero g moments). This was costing us 25 extra miles (bad when gas is $8.50/gallon), and even worse, 25 minutes of hike time at the Quirang.

Sure enough, it was back at the B&B, and once more we drove through Portree, and up past Old Man of Storr (now emerging from the clouds). There was traffic on the road now too. Despite the delay, we were still on track to squeeze in the hike before our ferry at 2pm.


We passed by Old Man of Storr again...


...and the falls near Kilt Rock...

The Quirang car park had ~8 cars this morning. It was sunny, but dark grey clouds threatened to the southwest above the slanty mountains. We prepared for the worst, bringing layers and rain gear, and set off by 10:30am. The hike to the prison was very familiar, as we were here a few days ago.


Blue skies at the Quirang...


Looking back towards the trialhead. I'm far behind in the 2nd pic...


Gotta love the purple heather...


Just above the scree field (1st pic) the Needle towers above. That would be our ascent route up to the table...

At the Prison, we followed a steep path up to the left of The Needle. Wendy found the dirt steps cut into the grass to be very useful.


Looking up our ascent path...



Looking back down at Wendy and The Prison...

Once at the Needle, the trails forked a bit, and we followed the most worn trail through a steep and narrow gap in the tall spires of rock. Eventually we reached the grassy slopes below the table, where I remembered my experience 8 years ago.


The path led to a crack between giant rocks...


A look back at me, with the Needle on the left...


After passing through the narrow crack, we arrived at the grassy landscape below The Table...


I remembered the easiest way to reach The Table top was from the back side (1st pic). We could see the fairy pond below to the west (2nd pic)...


8 years ago, my mom, sister, and I climbed up to The Table (accidently) via a more challenging route near this pillar...

By the time we scrambled up to the table, it had been 1hr since the start of our hike. That didn't leave much time to explore, but we took some photos, and then headed to the grassy knobs to the south.


Looking south from atop The Table. Another group of hikers were here today also (on the left)...


Wendy and I on The Table (14er cards at the right edge)...


We made our way along the right side of this pic, to check out the grass covered knobby rocks...

Up there we found some sheep, and realized the best views were to be had here. Unfortunately, we didn't have any time to spend here, given our time crunch. Too bad I forgot my camera this morning… Still managed some pics though.


Wendy makes her way over, and we find some sheep...


The sheep were very shaggy. They must have missed their trim this year (and perhaps many years)...



Sheep that make it up to this secluded area don't often come down...


Wendy heads straight for the sheep...


A look down at crofts along the shore. Not much room for the sheep to go on this stretch of land...


The view of the Table from here was great! 14ercards makes an appearance...

The descent was tricky in a few places due to the steep dirt/rock slopes, but we made great time, and arrived back at the car at 1pm, as intended.


Sunken land on the Quirang. We made our way back to the Prison (2nd pic)...


This section was the trickiest part of the hike back (1st pic). Wendy cools off as we head back to the trailhead...

The drive to Uig was 15 minutes, and we reached the ferry terminal 45 minutes early, as required. This was plenty of time to handle the boarding tickets, and for Wendy to order some lentil soups and toasties at the local café. We ate in the car while waiting in the queue.

The ferry was a little late. We didn't leave til 2:20pm, but have made great time on the sea, and are nearly at the Isle of Harris now (3:33pm). Time to get back to the car… Wendy quote: "Those islands look like little poops in the sea."

The weather has been surprisingly amenable and sunny today.


The mouth of the ferry closes, as we leave port. Blue skies today as we depart from Uig!


Windmills and sea cliffs as we leave Skye...



A look inside the ferry, and at the outskirts of the Isle of Harris...



We could see the step-like silhouette of Isle of Skye in the distance...


A look ahead at Tarbert, our ferry arrival point in the Isle of Harris...

9:35pm, Seaforth B&B, Ardvourlie, Isle of Harris ardvourliebandb.co.uk

This might just be our favorite B&B of the trip!

The ferry landed ~4pm, and we immediately headed for South Harris. The main highway follows the west coast of Harris, and is famous for the scenic beaches.


A look back at the ferry as we head south...


The new Isle of Harris terrain was fun to explore. A bit different than Skye...


The main highway was mostly 2 lane, with some 1 lane stretches....

We took a turn off for Luskentyre Beach, and in 2 miles arrived at a car park near dunes leading to a pristine beach. In fact there was a rainbow as we appeared, but soon the clouds gathered, and after a short walk on the beach, we drove out as a heavy rain shower began.


Luskentyre Beach (with rainbow in 1st pic)...


Super scenic beach, though even in the summer, the water stays pretty chilly...


Heart-shaped cloud? We returned to the car right before the rain unleashed...

We circled around an enormous sandy beach (in low tide) that was becoming filled in with the rising tide. A few minutes later, the sun emerged, and drenched the coast in sunshine. The coastal drive was scenic, but we were facing the blinding sun the whole time.


Scenic coastline on the Isle of Harris...



Cool mini grass islands (1st pic). Sweet golf course too (2nd pic)...

When we reached the bottom of the island, we decided to return via the same route, instead of the winding eastern route. This proved to be highly enjoyable, as the blue/green waves were smashing into the coastline, and the sun shone the entire time.


Water smashing on rocks is always fun to watch...


There's a slight rainbow just off the beach...


When we returned to the ferry terminal, we continued north, driving 12 miles past Tarbert under gloomy, but beautiful skies, to our B&B.


More sun, clouds, and rainbows. Been the theme of our trip...



Our scenic B&B location for the night in North Harris. This is sheep crofting country...

Upon arrival, we met with the kind owners, who run the farm. They have sheep, highland long-haired cows, and hens. They even have a pet sheep that responds to her name, and they take her on walks.

The bedroom and bathroom is super cozy and decorated with cute trinkets. We asked the owners lots of questions about sheep herding. There's a chance we might get to see a shearing tomorrow. In our room was a DVD documentary on Sheparding in the Hebrides. We watched it, and recognized one of the B&B owners in it. Surely this place is as authentic as sheep crofting gets.


Our room at Seaforth B&B, Ardvourlie, Isle of Harris ardvourliebandb.co.uk...



For dinner we just had some food we brought from Skye, since we knew there wouldn't be many restaurant options on Harris, and we wanted to spend all daylight hours sight-seeing. I drank a lot of hot water mixed with a malty milk powder called Horlicks. Spent a long time getting my pictures downloaded to the laptop (turns out a 2 of the cameras were generating the same file names).


A look out our window at dusk...

No time set for breakfast. I guess it's a relaxed pace here, and we'll see what happens. Wendy's been researching stuff to do on the Isle of Lewis.

Late to bed (midnight).

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