2010 San Juan Trip #1:

Mt Eolus (14,083'), Sunlight (14,059'), Windom (14,082'), July 4th, 2010

Despite being plenty warm and comfortable in my roomy 1-man tent, and pretty tired from the past week, I couldn't get to sleep last night. I felt my body getting deep rest, but the mind wouldn't shut down. Nothing too unusual about this, so I just kept checking my watch to see when 3am "wake-up" would come.

After seeing 2:25am on my watch, I fell into a vivid dream where I heard a noise outside, checked my watch (5am), and found a couple dogs and a wierd animal running around camp. The sky had a low thin layer of cloud hiding the mountain tops, and Tom looked uneasy, saying he was feeling aweful, and would have to hike out today. I pleaded with him that we could just go slow and try Eolus, and that the sun would likely be out above the clouds. I said maybe he'd feel better with some cold medicine. He said he didn't bring any, and then I knew I must be dreaming. Then a dog started biting me painfully on the wrist, and I tried beating it off me, before finally waking up ~3am, relieved and excited that the hike was still on today.

The night sky was full of stars, the best omen for starting a 14er hike. We hit the trail at 3:55am, following the dirt trail further into the basin, eventually hitting switchbacks until we reached Twin Lakes in the upper basin (12,500'). In the darkness we made great speed, as I had no reason to stop for pics. Tom was the guide, having been here before. At Twin Lakes, we had trouble finding the climbers trail to Eolus, but after resorting to my print-out of the 14ers.com route description, we cut west from Twin Lakes, merging into the Eolus trail. A short ways up, I decided to stash my poles and some food/gear near a stream, since we'd be returning this way for Sunlight/Windom later. The dirt trail faded as we neared the rocky base of Eolus, and turned north towards the saddle between Eolus and N. Eolus.

We set out in our headlamps at 3:55am. The trail crossed a stream as it climbed out of the lower basin...

A look back in the pre-dawn light, during the beginning of the climber's trail to Eolus...

Some yellow flowers dotted the sides of the trail. The summit of Eolus is straight ahead...

The trail faded as we reached the rocks...

The route to Eolus takes a sharp right beyond the snow patch...

The first rays of light fell at 5:58am. The trail ascends along the snow patch on the left...

This is "the snow patch on the left", mentioned above. Easy terrain...

A look back at Tom, and Eolus's rocky basin...

We were heading straight for the sun, and I saw a profile emerging on the horizen...

It was a goat! I took some pics of "Billy", with Sunlight and Windom in the backdrop...

We head up some rock slabs and soon reached the saddle between Eolus and North Eolus at ~13,850', at the base of Eolus's famous catwalk. I scampered a short ways up N. Eolus to get some pics of the catwalk and Eolus, and then decided I might as well continue up the remaining ~170' to N. Eolus and claim it now. The scramble up N. Eolus was lots of class 3 fun, and only took a few minutes.

We angled around the right side of this pic, to reach the saddle. Eolus's summit is on the left side of the pic...

Tom leads the way up towards the saddle...

We turned back south, following some mild ledges towards the saddle...

The saddle! Featuring the catwalk leading to Mt Eolus! I scrambled up a short ways to get a good pic...

...then continued scrambling to the top of North Eolus, an unofficial 14er (me at the top)... (pic by Tom)

The view to the north, from North Eolus...

The view south, from N. Eolus. Sunlight and Windom are just to the right of the sun...

Tom spotted a goat checking him out near the saddle. I could see them staring at each other from my vantage point, as I descended back to the saddle...

Another cool view of Eolus and the catwalk...

I told Tom to go ahead, and I'd take some photos of him on the catwalk. He stashed his poles at the saddle, and headed across. I followed a few minutes later. The catwalk looked impressive, but was extremely mild, with plenty of width (for my comfortability). Roach rates it class 2. Beyond the catwalk, the true challenge awaited. The vague trail to Eolus consisted of several class 3 moves up the east face of the ridge. I topped out on the ridge a couple of times, only to find the ridge impassable. Tough trail finding slowed us a down a bit, but we eventually figured out the best course, and reached the summit at 7:20am.

Tom makes his way across the catwalk, followed by Mr. Goat...

A view from the catwalk. Not terribly exposed...

Tom continues across the ridge...

Once past the catwalk portion, stay to the left of the ridge, and traverse your way back and forth up the east side of Eolus...

I tried regaining the ridge, and ran into this. You can see Tom (look for some red) traversing on the left...

Again, Tom is small in this pic (look for light blue helmet). The east face of Eolus was a mix of rock (mostly) with some patchy grass...

Tom climbs back up to the ridge...

Foiled again by the rough ridge top when trying to regain the crest. We turned back and continued to traverse across the face, towards the summit...

Eventually we found the path of least resistance, keeping it to easy class 3, and reached the summit ~7:20am...

We were the first to summit Eolus today, and had the peak to ourselves for our ~20 minute stay... (pic by Tom)

Tom on Eolus, with Windom and Sunlight in the distance below the sun. The weather was superb, offering a good chance for me to bag all three peaks today...

We enjoyed ~20 minutes on the summit to ourselves, and could see others crossing the catwalk and working their way across the east face. We crossed paths with a few people during our descent. Most people were planning to hike Windom and/or Sunlight later today as well.

A look ahead at the catwalk, with North Eolus extending to the left, during our descent...

We had an easier time finding a good path down the east fast on the descent. Tom is visible if you look hard...

In 15 minutes, we had reached the start of the catwalk. A look back before the catwalk (again Tom is visible if you look hard)...

Tom walks up to the start of the catwalk...

Then keeps to the right, avoiding the exposure. North Eolus ahead...

A sweet pic of Tom finishing the catwalk, with Eolus behind...

I had to climb up for one more pic of Eolus's fascinating ridge before our descent to Twin Lakes...

Next up: Sunlight and Windom, off in the distance...

At the N. Eolus / catwalk saddle, Tom discovered that the rubber handles on his stashed poles had been gnawed on by the goat! They must have been attracted by the salt. I was now fearing my stashed poles/gear/food that I had left down trail, and told Tom I was going to hustle down to check out the situation. I scrambled back down the slope, jogging where I could, expecting to see a group of goats in the distance. But the coast was clear as I arrived at the stream, however my poles were thrown onto the bank, and my plastic bag of gear was shredded. Sure enough, my rubber pole handles were gnawed down (still useable). My non-food items were untouched, but a couple plastic bags of dehydrated food had some holes. I collected everything and sat near the stream waiting for Tom. When he arrived, we pumped water to refill our bladders.

A look up from the stream where I found my gnawed poles. Tom took a break here when he arrived...

Tom had already climbed Sunlight and Windom, and didn't know how much energy he had left to climb either of them, but planned to give it a shot. It's recommended to climb Sunlight first, because Windom has an easier ridge descent at the end of a long day, but for lighting/photographic reasons, I wanted to hike Windom first. We descended back to Twin Lakes (12,500'), before starting the climb towards Sunlight/Windom.

Heading down Eolus's climbers trail, back to Twin Lakes (around the bend)...

A look across one of the Twin Lakes. We circumvented on the left...

Tom walks along the clear Twin Lake...

We cross at the narrow gap between the two lakes...

After a few minutes of ascent, Tom decided he needed to stop, and told me to go one ahead, and that he'd either hang out at the lakes, or back at camp. Meanwhile another hiker was heading to Sunlight, and I considered joining him, but wanted to hit Windom first, so decided to head on solo.

On the trail to the basin between Sunlight and Windom, following another hiker...

I stopped at a big cairn in the basin, before the trail split between Windom and Sunlight, and stashed a plastic bag with my water filter, and other non-food/clothes items, thinking they should be safe from any goats. At 9:50am, with cloudless skies, I was in great shape to hit both peaks. I just hoped to run into company on the trail to Sunlight later in the day, which has some class 4 sections that would nice to not be "last on the trail" for.

I stashed some non-food, non-pole, gear under this cairn, and headed across the snow, taking the set of footprints above the hiker in the picture, which lead to Windom...

A look across those upper set of footprints. Windom is the peak on the right, that the footprints point to...

Beyond the snow patch, it was a straight shot path towards Windom's ridge, following a trail through the rocks...

Very quickly, I reached Windom's ridge. The approach to Sunlight is seen on the left. I planned to ascend the saddle later, and make my way to Sunlight (left-most peak)...

The views only got better as I ascended the ridge. A wide look back at the valley we camped in (left), Eolus and N. Eolus (center), Sunlight and Sunlight Spire (right)...

Uh oh, goats on the prowl. Better hang on to my poles... I look across at Sunlight. Sunlight Spire (on the right), looks just as tall, but is in fact only 13,995'...

While hiking the easy ridge, I kept glancing down at the basin below, keeping track of where hikers were crossing over between Sunlight and Windom. At 10:35am, I reached a notch in the ridge, where a path led down to the basin. I planned to descend here after reaching the summit. Beyond the notch, the trail became much steeper and challenging, but still class 3. I crossed paths with some hikers here, who said to stay to the right at the notch (but I think they were referring to their descent). I referred to the 14ers.com route description, and followed a steep cairned trail on the left.

A wide view from the notch on Windom's ridge. The ridge became challenging and fun ahead. With several small puzzles to solve...

Some looks at the steep-ish terrain beyond the notch. Stay on the left side of the ridge while ascending...

A look up the ridge at Windom's summit. Sunlight on the left...

A look back down the ridge, with Eolus in the distance...

After a lot of fun scrambling and trail deciphoring, I reach the summit block at 11am. However when I topped out, I noticed Windon's summit consisted of huge blocks, and that the true summit was inaccessible from my position. I dropped back down and contoured around, eventually ascending at the true summit. I spent ~20 minutes at the summit, resting and enjoying the views from this better than advertised peak. I had the peak to myself the entire time.

My first view of the summit revealed a blocky peak, which I could not climb across, so I searched for a different way up...

My second attempt had me closer to the summit, but I still found myself disjointed from the true summit. Time to look for a different way up...

Finally, the top of Windom!

Self portrait while sitting on the summit block, with Sunlight in the back drop...

A look northeast, with Eolus, N. Eolus, and Twin Lakes on the left, followed by Sunlight and Sunlight Spire on the right...

A close=up of Sunlight, my next destination. I'd be heading for the snow patch on the left side of the 2nd pic...

Satisfied with my experience on Windom, I retreated back to the saddle, keeping an eye out on Sunlight, happy to see another hiker making his way up towards Sunlight's saddle. I hoped to catch up to have some company during the class 4 sections. At the notch, I descended down a loose dirt and scree path, to the right of a long snow chute. It was difficult to avoid kicking small rocks down. Fortunately, no one was ascending below me, but I still worked hard to keep the rocks in place. Eventually I reached a steep snow patch, and finally made use of my ice axe for a few steps (poles would have been just a good I think), before continuing down another rock section that delivered me to a less steep snow patch, which I boot-skied a short ways to the basin, at 13,350' (according to my watch).

From here it was a 700' climb to Sunlight. I made my way across the basin, and started engaging my uphill leg muscles once more, snacking on Twizzlers and jerky often. Some people were descending past me, on their way to Windom. I noticed several other hikers on their way up, coming from Twin Lakes. I would surely have company after all. The climb to the saddle was straight forward, and not too loose. I thought I heard my name early on, but figured it was for someone else. As I neared the top of the saddle, I heard my name again. Someone was suggesting to avoid the orange dirt, and head straight towards him. A minute later, I realized it was TOM! He had continued on to Sunlight, after a rest at Twin Lakes, and had been waiting a short while at the saddle, watching me descend Windom and trudge up towards the saddle. Seeing Tom resurrected on the mountain gave me an energy boost, and I quickly hiked the remaining distance to meet him at the saddle.

A look at my descent route, from the notch, down to the snow field, followed by a climb up towards Sunlight's orange scree saddle. Also, a look back up at the steep descent path...

From the bottom of the basin, at 13,350', my descent route is in red. The blue line indicates where I saw people ascending, which appears to be more solid rock (verses loose scree and dirt on the red route)...

A look up the slog hike to the saddle, and a look over to Windom...

I managed to keep good footing during the ascent to the saddle...

A look across at Eolus and Twin Lakes. Meanwhile, Tom took this pic of me ascending the slope...

Meanwhile, I thought I heard a voice calling my name from atop the saddle, and I eventually realized it was Tom! I was surprised and very happy to meet back up with him for the final stretch on Sunlight...

From the saddle, a look towards Windom, and Sunlight Spire...

Tom had enjoyed this final portion of Sunlight on his last visit, and eagerly guided me across the remaining class 3/4 route to the summit. Before leaving the saddle, we stashed our poles, hoping they'd be safe this time from goats (none in the vicinity).

Tom and I started the final climb from the saddle at 12:40pm, with just a few friendly small clouds in the skies...

Tom climbs a borderline class 4 pitch...

A look back at Sunlight Spire (13,995') whose jutting summit block would be the hardest 14er to climb (5.10 rating I've read), if it were just 5' higher. Windom on the right...

After some scrambling, we reached a shelf area, before the next class 4 move...

On Tom's last visit, his group hiked through this arch, and summited on the north side of Sunlight, but upon further inspection, the route looked a bit sketchy, so we explored the standard route...

Tom heads to the crux of the climb, a class 4 move that another hiker is about to descend in the distance...

Tom and I crossed paths with some climbers as they descended the crux. It was a class 4 move, with a good 15' of exposure. It required some carefully measured movements, but the rock was solid. The arch can be seen on the right side of the pic...

A look towards the summit from Above the crux. The next step was to climb up under another archway, and pop up on the other side of the ridge...

Almost there! The view after climbing out through the arch. It was a straight forward scramble to the summit block now...

We reached the summit register at 1:10pm. Sunlight is famous for it's exposed summit block (as seen in pic below). I gave a brief effort to climb it, but quickly realized a pic on top wasn't worth the risk. Tom managed to get up last time, but he didn't bother to revisit it today. A few minutes later, some young hikers from Boulder arrived, and one of them climbed to the summit (enough to lie against it at least).

I couldn't believe how awesome the weather was today. Gotta give Mother Nature credit for my three peak day (4 if you count North Eolus), totaling ~5700' in gain from camp. I was feeling quite happy to have "cleared the board" in a day at Chicago Basin. It'd be all downhill from here. After ~25 minutes on the summit, we made our way back towards the saddle, carefully descending the steep pitches.

Tom admires Sunlight's airy summit block. I climbed a short ways up the first crack, and turned back, content to forego any stressful situations...

A pano from the summit, showing the pointy Sunlight Spire, Windom, the valley we camped in, and Eolus (left to right)...

A hiker from Boulder squirmed his way to the summit. Amazing that this handful of huge blocks came to rest this way...

We climbed back down the chimney, under the archway... (2nd pic by Tom)

A look across at Windom, and the basin leading down to Twin Lakes...

Tom stands at the saddle, after shooing away a marmot that was inspecting the set of poles left by multiple hikers...

A look back at Tom during our descent into the basin. Windom on the right...

Tom leading the way down to the basin. Windom on the left. I found the descent manageable, to avoid slipping much on the dirt trail...

A patch of yellow flowers pops up along the way. A look ahead at the basin we need to cross before descending to Twin Lakes...

A look back at Tom, just before reaching the basin floor...

During the descent, I was wondering about my gear I stashed next to the giant cairn in the basin. I went ahead, crossed the snow fields, and was horrified to see all my gear shredded across a 20 foot perimeter near the cairn. I had left no food, but found my water pump in pieces everywhere, and even the WAG bag (unused "poop" bag) had been chewed up. Disgusted, and embarressed to have caused such a mess, I combed the area for all traces of garbage, and cleaned up the litter. My water filter tubing had been chewed into about 10 small pieces, but the main components were intact. By the time Tom showed up, I had already cleaned up the area, and showed him the trashed water filter tubing. He said that we could always boil water if needed, and pointed out a nearby marmot as the culprit. My high spirits now tarnished, I continued down towards Twin Lakes, wondering how many hikers had noticed the mess and felt offended at such carelessness. I started wondering if my tent and backpack at camp where being gnawed on at this moment...

I crossed the large snow patch to reach the big cairn at the Windom/Sunlight trail split, and found that this marmot had destroyed my water filter! He watched as I cleaned up the mess, no doubt thinking, "That's what you get for leaving me stuff to play with"...

The hike down to Twin Lakes was beautiful, but I was distracted, and in a bit of a funk, having gathered up all the trash, and feeling dumb for leaving gear on the trail...

I soon realized sulking wasn't worthy of my time in this spectacular environment, so I took in the views, and marveled at the perfect weather that continued into the afternoon. Twin Lakes, with Eolus just visible in the center of the pic...

Tom makes his way to a big rock along the lake where we took a rest before the final 1600' descent to camp...

So this is what the hike looked like this morning in the dark. Glad to see it in the daylight. That dark mountain in the back is Eolus...

After a 15 minute break at Twin Lakes, we started the descent down to the lushly green lower basin at 3:30pm. I stopped at a scenic stream and set my poles down to take some photos. After jogging down for several mintues, to catch Tom, I realized my hands were empty! I dropped my pack and started hiking back up, measuring 250' of gain on the way to retreive my poles. As I was re-hiking this trail, I realized my pack was left open for any critter to ravage! I hurried back to find Tom standing watch over my backpack. "I thought was had enough issues with critters today," was his simple explanation on why he choose to wait over my backpack. Meanwhile, I wondered how my other backpack and tent were doing back at camp. I jogged much of the way back fearing I'd find a bunch of goats gnawing my tent poles...

I stopped to bring out my DSLR for this scenic cascading stream. I got to revisit it when I realized I had left my poles here, and re-climbed 250' to claim them...

"How Green Is My Valley" (9th grade reading material)? Very green. This view drew out another Switzerland reminder for Tom...

A look back at the slopes leading to the upper basin. A look ahead towards the edge of forest where we camped...

I arrived back at camp ~4:20pm (after a 12+ hr day and ~6000' gain), and was relieved to find it silent and undisturbed. Given the busted water filter, I took inventory of the water, and managed to spill a bunch inside my tent. So while Tom took a nap in his bivy, I aired out my tent and fought the mosquitos. Fortunately, I found enough intact tubing to connect the water filter components, and then re-filled my bottles and bladder at the nearby stream.

After a day of great weather, it was clouding over now, and soon a slight wind kicked up, which thankfully swept the mosquitos. For dinner I cooked fajitas! The beans, peppers, tomatoes, leeks, cheese, sour cream, and salsa that I had dehydrated this week proved to be a successful meal. A few drops of rain fell over dinner.

A look at camp upon my arrival. No sign of goat invasion. For dinner I rehydrated my fajita mix...

What do to now? To catch the 11:30am train tomorrow, we planned a 7am wake up call to pack up and hike out. It was only 6:30pm. 12.5 hrs of sleep? Might make up for my ~30 minutes of sleep last night. To kill some time Tom and I discuss, of all things, hiking! Hey, never a dull moment when reliving 14er adventures, or anticipating future endeavors. The goats and a large hare kept checking out our camp perimeter while we discussed what Chicago Basin 14ers were our favorites. I'd have to say that Windom was my favorite peak today, probably because of the surprisingly block summit, and the (lightly) puzzling ridge to the peak, which I got to discover while hiking solo. Each peak has some unique character (see pics above).

A deer wanders around near our camp (lower right 1st pic). This huge hare must have lived in a hole ~20' from my tent...

Eventually I entered my tent, and was surprised to hear the pitter-pat of rain against the fly. Sure had fortunate weather today, with just a small amount of precipitation while cozy in my tent. I reviewed the pics on my cameras, until I passed out ~9pm. I woke up at 11:45pm, and found myself unable to sleep again. After a bathroom break, I brought out a crossword puzzle ~1am. And wrote down some of journal notes from the past 2 days.

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