Icelandic horses have impressive manes. Once off the bus at Landmannlauger, we head straight to the warden before a line builds to pay for camping...
11:30pm, Landmannlauger camp
Wendy wakes me up at 6:20am (I slept soundly with earplugs), and we immediately carry out all our bags from our 6 person room (all others still asleep) into the hall, to finalize our luggage/pack situation. The hostel has a locked luggage storage room, though anyone can simply ask for the key anytime. We left lots of dehydrated food and clean clothes for our return.
Downstairs, there were tons of backpacks lying on the floor, no doubt for the 7:15am shuttle to the bus station, which I had been informed about by the camp attendant yesterday. We grab our food from the fridge, make last minute adjustments to our bags, and eventually follow the crowd outside to a small bus at the curb. But lo and behold, this group is part of a private tour, and not the shuttle! After a few confusing moments, we realize we missed the real bus, so we flag a taxi, and quickly arrive at the BSI terminal (1500isk taxi fare vs 560isk for 2 on bus). No worries, we arrive at the station in plenty of time to buy one-way tickets to Landmannlauger (14,400isk for 2 tickets), departing at 8am, arriving at 12:30pm.
The bus is full, and we work hard to find 2 seats together. With our packs in the luggage compartment below, we sit back as the bus rolls out, passing the outskirts of the city, before heading towards a wall of mountain and cloud to the west. 15 minutes into the ride we see steam rising from geothermal vents in the ground. Not a sight we're used to seeing in the US (unless you're in Yellowstone), but typical throughout Iceland. The clouds thin as we cross the mountains, and the bus descends to flat sunny farmland stretching out to the ocean. Try as I might, I can't fight the urge to doze, still needing to catch up on sleep, despite this opportunity to witness fresh Iceland terrain out the window.
The bus stops at a small store in Selfoss for a 20 minute (bathroom) break (no toilets on the bus). We buy some skyr and an apple at the store to eat during the rest of the ride. The bus stops multiple times on this 4.5hr journey, to drop hikers off at various locations, and give passengers time to stretch legs. However, I'm anxious to reach the exotic Landmannlauger, and wish we'd just keep moving. The terrain for much of the trip is a barren rocky landscape, and I don't feel too bad for dozing.
About 45 minutes before reaching our destination, the vegetation increases, and we see sheep and horses scattered among the mountains. After fording several streams, we arrive at Landmannlauger, and head straight to the warden's hut to pay our 1000isk/person to camp here. We're told face masks (for ash) during the trek are optional, and can be purchased at any of the huts on the trek. It's 500isk to charge an electrical device in the warden's hut (wondering if all the huts have this service). The large field area around the hut is covered with tents, but we find a nice flat, fairly grassy spot to pitch our tent on at the edge of camp. The bathroom and kitchen facilities here are 1st class (for campgrounds)!
Icelandic horses have impressive manes. Once off the bus at Landmannlauger, we head straight to the warden before a line builds to pay for camping...
Some pics of our tent on the edge of camp, not too far from the facility buildings. Not a lot of grass in these parts, but the dirt was soft...
After eating some jerky and a small lunch, I ask the warden for hike suggestions in the area, and decide to climb the multi-colored Brennisteinsalda peak. The hike takes us on the trek's main trail through a lava field, and up to the pink colored Brennisteinsalda (the most colorful mountain in all of Iceland). Unfortunately, the heavy clouds dampen the pastel colors, and the hike is not too scenic today. I'm even left wondering if this 5 day trek may be a bit of a disappointment!
After a short rocky climb at the start, we followed a dirt trail into a lava field...
On the far side of the lava field, a grassy meadow with white cotton-ish flowers appeared...
I played with my wide angle lens...
The field of cotton was very scenic, despite the gloomy clouds...
After our fill on pics, we continued on the trail (left side of pic). Our hike would lead us back down the opposite side of the field, which was something for us to look forward to...
The trail climbed past the edge of the lava field...
We ascend past geothermal vents, appreciating the humid "rotten egg" odorous steam, and make our way up the gentle ridge of Brennisteinsalda. Sparse rain drops begin to fall, but not enough to get out the rain gear. I didn't realize this hike overlapped so much of the main trail we'll hike tomorrow. It may have been better to hike elsewhere today. After climbing half way up the mountain, we fork off onto a climbers trail leading to the summit. We have the peak to ourselves, and quickly start our descent down the other side.
Brennisteinsalda, our destination, on the right...
The trail led past a large stinking steam vent. The swirling wind carried the steam across the trail as I passed, offering a generous serving of moist eggy-sulfur air...
A look back across the vast lava field from an explosion 2500 years ago. Landmannlauger hut sits just beyond it...
Brennisteinsalda sure does have some color to it, even with the heavy clouds...
Finally we reached a fork in the trail, and took the climbers path to the summit...
As we gained elevation, we could see the colorful mountains we'd be hiking over tomorrow. A bunch of hardened lava sits on the left of the pic...
Brennisteinsalda had an odd looking protrusion...
The view from the summit at 4:30pm, after hiking for 75 minutes...
The colorful scenery surely would have looked more spectacular lit up by the sun, but not today. We quickly started the descent, wary about precipitation...
A short ways down the mountain, we stopped, out of the wind, for a snack. The scenery here reminded me a little of Death Valley or Badlands colorful rock areas (minus the green)...
The opposite end of the grassy meadow appears on the left at the bottom of the mountain...
Wendy takes a pic of me from her position in the pic above (taken at the same time)...
The descent down to the meadow passed some bright green veins of vegetation (a small sample of things to come over the next couple of days)...
We were a little disappointed the trail stayed on the edge of the meadow, away from the flowers and sheep....
Still, the meadow was pretty...
Soon the lava field approached...
A last look back at the meadow (until tomorrow)...
A look back at Brennisteinsalda from across the lava field, with its protruding black horn. Ahead is Landmannlaugar. Our tent is the only yellow one in the pic...
The final descent back to camp...
Upon our return, we decide it's time to check out the famous hot springs of Landmannlauger, where hot and cold springs merge in a pool, "creating the most amazing hot bath imaginable" (according to Lonely Planet). The springs are just a brief walk from camp.
The natural pool is located beyond the flag pole, just a short walk from camp. We walked over in sandals and bathing suit with our towels for a dip...
We are STUNNED at how spectacular they are. Vivid green grass and moss hang from the rim of the pool, spectacled with small yellow buttercups. The sound of several gentle streams of variable water temps tumbling over black lava rocks into the pool is very peaceful. One can find the perfect temp by wading across the pool. Everyone is happy and relaxed here. Wendy and I spend over 1.5hrs soaking up the dreamlike quality of this experience. A soft "bah" in the distance adds an additional charm.
Wendy waded in first, and I could tell by her HUGE smile that it was acceptable. :-)
After soaking for well over an hour in "paradise", I was determined to capture the scene as best I could, and returned to the pool with my camera...
Even after 80 minutes in the hot springs, Wendy still has that GIANT smile! It seemed like a foregone conclusion that these magical springs would be the highlight of the trek (or even entire trip!) for her (and maybe me?), and we were just 2 days in...
Wendy always notes how much of a pale, white guy I am (she's always got a fashionable dark tan). But today, after a glance around at the entirely Caucasian/European contingency, I was the normal "overly pale white" one, and she was the odd one in the group..
I could just stare at the lush greenery decorating the edge of the pool forever, slowly drifting towards whatever temperature water I desired at the moment...
A man in a speedo, sitting on a rock (visible in many pics above), saw me with the camera, and jumped in, Happily offering to take a pic of Wendy and I. "My hands are dry," he reasoned, in some European accent I can't recall now...
Somehow I managed to keep my hand (and camera) out of the water for 10 minutes, taking these photos. This stitched pic left Wendy's shoulder missing, but still good enough to capture the enchanted hot spring...
One can't stay in the hot springs forever though. After drying off, we headed back to our tent to cook up dinner. We had spent the past week dehydrating food 24 hours a day, and now was the moment of truth. Wendy had some dehydrated asparagus soup, and eggplant parmeson. I had a dehydrated fajita (peppers, mushrooms, onions, pulled port, beans, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream, tortilla). My fajita mix was a success, forming a desirable consitency and taste! Even Wendy, who is not a fan of mexican food considered it "pretty good".
After dinner, Wendy went back to the hot springs for a second dip, while I did the dishes. Later we took showers, at 400isk for 5 minutes of hot water (seemed like less than 5 minutes though). I think if the rest of the Iceland trip was a total bust, Wendy would still be content, having experienced these world class hot springs.
It's chilly outside tonight in this crowded campground. No alarm needed tomorrow. We'll get up as we please, and hike the 8 miles when we're ready. With 24 hours of light, it's easy to arrive to camp late in the day.. Some sun was breaking through the clouds at 10:30pm. Hoping for sun tomorrow.
We hung our wet towels and bathing suits on a rope fence near our tent to dry overnight. Gotta love arctic camping, where you can go to the bathroom at 12:15am and not need a headlamp. Other campers are reading a book in the twilight.
I saw a hiker smoking on the trail today! Can't remember seeing that happen too often…