10:23am, Te Anau libray.
This library has been our best source for free wi-fi the whole trip. Alarm at 7:45am, time for me to get up and visit the garage for an estimate on windshield repair from the crack that appeared after our Routeburn tramp. Chilly out today, and some thin fresh snow is visible on the high peaks to the west. Brought the car to Caltex station just after 8am, and was informed that it was a "good chip" meaning "nasty". The whole windshield would have to be replaced. Well, there goes $350-$400, since we have a $1500 deductible on the car. But a $0 deductible would have cost ~$350 over our 40 days, so it's almost a wash… Back at the hostel, I made a phone call to book the Hump Ridge trail, and arrived back at the room as Wendy woke up, 8:30am, and we packed up, cooked cereals, and left the hostel before 10am. Every hotel, hostel, etc, has check out at 10am. Keeps you from sleeping in, and helps make your day productive I guess. Like the sandflies, it keeps you moving. Then onto the library for free wi-fi! Checked lodging options for tonight near Tautapere. Booked a B&B for $98. Seems like a cool place. Wicked Wee Dump near the Hump.
11:56pm, Wicked Wee Dump near the Hump, Tautapere
This is the sweetest place to stay ever. More later... Realized we didn't have a place booked in Queenstown for Saturday night before we fly out Sunday morning. Called 5-6 BBH places before finding an available room. Bought groceries for dinner and the trek, then walked across the street to the cinema, and watched a 30 minute noon showing of a scenic fjordland film, which Kurt and Rebecca saw and highly recommended. It was indeed fantastic, with gorgeous area footage of the majestic fjordlands with the most ideal lighting imaginable. We were the only ones in the whole theater, but still shared a seat together, taking advantage of the extra wide chairs. Felt like we were soaring over and down a waterfall in one sequence. The music fueled the non-stop drama. By now we were ready for lunch, once again stopping at our favorite fish n' chips spot in town. 2 fish for Wendy, 1 for me, and a chips to share, which we brought to the lakefront. Windy and chilly out today still, but manageable with the emerging sunshine.
Eating our fish and chips along Lake Te Anau...
After lunch, it was time to say good-bye to Te Anau, after spending 3 nights here over the past week. We drove south along the lake through Manapouri, and then across rolling farmland to Tautapere, arriving at our Bed and Breakfast ~2:45pm. I head read grand reviews about this cozy full-inclusive suite, and we were quickly thoroughly delighted with the place upon arrival. The owner greeted us, gave us a tour of the room, and pointed out some homemade coconut, apricot, raisin cake left for us on the counter. I found the place online, and booked it online this morning (surprised it was still available), since there wasn't a phone # listed. Turns out, if you bypass the online booking, she'll charge you a sweet discount ($80 vs $98). Unfortunately the phone # isn't posted online, but here it is; 03-226-6238. Or direct email: p.nutandjanice@xtra.co.nz. Then she said she'd be back with a breakfast tray soon. Cool! There are sheep in the back yard (I later found out the owner orders 8-10 a year, fattens them up, and slaughters them come winter for meat).
We drove to the information center in town, to pick up our Hump Ridge hut tickets, and get "the scoop" on the hike (mandatory to come between 3-5pm the day before). We also got some info on the coastal drive along the south coast, and decide to check it out this afternoon. Since my camera is back at the B&B, and I'm feeling tired, we head back first for a bit. The owner arrives with a monster tray of food for tomorrow morning: big pitcher of apricot nectar, milk, muesli, weetabix, bread (2 kinds), 2 cups of apricot sauce, boysenberry jam, yogurt, and butter. Wow!!!
After some tea, we drive down the coast, stopping at sites along the way. It's very windy, and apparently this is the norm, given how all the trees lean sideways here. We check out Monkey Island, a small island that is land locked during low tide. We get a bit lost on some gravel roads, but end up back on track. The late afternoon sun breaks in and out of the clouds, turning the hay-grass gold above the rocky shores.
McKracken's Rest...
Gotta love Monkey Island. During low tide, it's actually a penisula. There's a trail and viewing platform at the top...
A wide view of the beach and Monkey Island...
More southern NZ coastline...
Saw some big splashes in the waves. Gee, I wonder what direction the wind typically blows here...
"Make way for ducklings" sign. Another stop at Mckracken's Rest during our return...
We return to our sweet cottage, and Wendy starts prepping dinner, as well as the veggies we'll bring on tomorrow's hike. I download the past 1.5 weeks worth of pics from our 3 cameras onto the computer. We're not hungry yet, so take showers (good hot shower here too!), and start packing for tomorrow.
I take up the owner's offer to pick some carrots from the garden (tasty). Wendy cooks up our beef schnitzel (thin beef steaks). We eat it with salad, chutney, and caramelized onions. Yummy. The boysenberry jam also works well with the steak. We try the beer and hard cider that we found for free in hostels over the past 2 weeks finally. The beer is pretty bad, but the cider is good. Still we end up dumping most of it. Fun to try though. For dessert we have some cereal, and mix in apricot sauce. Too bad we didn't use up more yams, but wasn't able to fit it in…
There was a working bathtub outside the cottage (as well as a shower inside)...
Wendy plays with a friendly kitten. Steak and salad for dinner...
Just enough room for the 2 of us to eat dinner...
Then it's back to packing for our final tramp. No kitchen gear needed this time. Planning to bring the big tripod though. 6:15am alarm, so we can be on the trail early to beat the crowds, and the afternoon heat.