5:43pm, Okara Lodge
What a climb today! Sitting by a warm gas stove now, on a carpet… We were up with the 6:15am alarm. A look out the window revealed long high clouds, which soon resulted in some drizzle. We had a big breakfast of cereal with yogurt and apricot jam (included with the B&B). As we packed up, we noticed a rainbow appear outside.
With our valuables hidden in the spare tire compartment, we made the 18km drive (last 6km on gravel) to Hump Ridge trailhead, admiring a rainbow much of the way, and threw a $2 coin into the donation box at the private property carpark.
By 8:45am we were on the trail, walking 30 minutes through a gorgeous forest, before descending to a sandy beach. We had been informed that we could walk along the beach for a couple miles, avoiding the less scenic road.
After a short forest stint to begin the hike...
...we descended to the beach.
The dark clouds yielded just enough rain for us to stop and don our rain jackets, only to let up. The light rain would come and go during our hike along the beach.
2nd pic: I found a good walking stick to replace my broken trekking pole...
We had to regain the trail to cross a bridge, and then continued along the beach.
Back to the beach for a long stretch...
We caught a bit of rainbow across the coast...
The beach was long, but a pleasant walk, and flat...
After a long stretch on the beach, we regained the trail and followed a 4x4 road a short ways til we reached the border of Fjordland National Park. Almost a immediately, the trail became well manicured, and the forest was gorgeous.
Some flowers along the 4x4 road...
We crossed a long suspension bridge, and reached the fork to Okara Lodge. This point marked the start of the loop we would hike over the next 3 days, eventually returning along the beach, back to our car.
We headed north, into lush dreamy forest. Stunning! The trail led to a boardwalk, which we followed for an hour, walking ~2.5' above the forest floor. Impressive design! I wonder what it's like during heavy traffic. The wood is tougher on the legs, and we can't use our poles.
I had no music in my head today. Was I getting too used to the scenery? Maybe too much car radio? I turned on the "Lost Woods" Zelda theme in my head, and found that to be quite suitable.
We walked a couple of miles on boardwalk. That's one way to protect the forest from erosion...
The forest canopy protects us from any drizzle. We would learn that these boardwalks were built by volunteers in nearby towns, and flown into to the forest.
Eventually we reach the Water Station, where there is a shelter, long drop toilet, and a bridge over a stream, with a bucket attatched to a 25' rope in order to collect water. We have a snack, and visit with a couple other people on the trail here, and continue on.
Wendy draws some water (can drink straight from the streams here)...
More mesmorizing forest...
I took more pics of forests today than all the other days in NZ combined...
We heard a helicopter earlier, and joked about wishing we had paid to have our bags heli-lifted to the hut ($100/bag). I've got a super heavy bag with the tri-pod, and lots of fresh food: 5 onions, 2lbs of tomatoes, and 1.5lbs of seasoned ground beef! Then starts the serious climbing of the day. Much of the ~2900' gain comes in the last 6km of todays 19km hike to Okara Lodge. I'm glad for my new walking stick. Before the hike, Wendy had offered me one of her poles, since I had the heavy pack, but as we start the climb, she realizes that wouldn't have worked out. :-)
Lots of interesting shades of green today. Not a bad day for overcast skies...
The trees start to change as we climb. The wood variety on this hike is astounding. I didn't know there were so many types of beech trees. Each eco-system has different old-growth characteristics, and all are scenic. I've never taken so many pics of forests in my life! Very ent-ish here. The trees have snaky, wormy, branches and trunks, and are bearded with lumpy moss, of varying green shades.
We plow up the hill, following steps, roots, and steep dirt, eventually reaching Stag Point, where we catch a glimpse of Okara Lodge in the distance. It is cold and windy now. I feel like a mule.
A look back down at the beach we hiked earlier today...
The forest changes yet again! Lots more pics. In my head, I make a list of the top 3 forests I've ever visited: The Francis Valley in Torres del Paine (Patagonia), Grand Tetons backpacking trails, and The Hump Ridge Track.
Wow, this hike has such an amazing variety of fairy tale forests...
The clouds sock us in, eliminating views down to the beach, as we break tree line. Fortunately, we'll retrace some of this stretch tomorrow, so hopefully we'll catch views then.
We follow a curvy boardwalk above the tundra as it winds uphill, then drops to Okara Lodge, located on the east side of the ridge. We are greeted by the "lodge lady". The Hump Ridge Track is privately run, and offer a bit more in luxury than the DOC huts. In fact, they call their structures "lodges" instead of "huts", and are run by "lodge managers" instead of "hut wardens".
We grab some bunks in foggy Okara Lodge...
We grab 2 bunks in an 8 bunk room, and find out there are only 12 people staying at this 40 bunk lodge tonight. The bathrooms are detached (connected by boardwalk). The kitchen is huge, and is loaded with pots, pans, plates, utensils, and tea kettles. There are plush couches, cushioned chairs, and a small store with pre-packaged meals (slightly cheaper than stores in Te Anau even!).
We eat a late lunch of egg salad with onions, tomatoes, salami, cheese, and carrots. Then it's time for Rummy 500 and hot honey water. No views out today, but we're hoping for a clearing later. The forecast is good for tomorrow.
This trail opened in 2001, privately built by the communities in the area, with permission from the DOC who set regulations. Hot showers cost $10. There is a 20 minute loop hike from here, to visit "the hump", where several large scenic outcroppings create sublime sub-alpine views.
We sit near the stove to warm up, and are wearing our down jackets. Wendy reads some magazines available here. The skies appear to be clearing! I can see down to the beach now. Still windy and overcast higher up, but promising. We'll cook dinner after the 6:30 "lodge talk". This place feels like a guided tour hut on the other Great Walks. It snowed here yesterday with a high of 6.8 degrees celcius, low of 1.2. 10:12pm Okara Lodge. Woo hoo! We have the whole 8 bunk room to ourselves! I've got stuff spread out on 3 bunks and am sleeping on a top bunk, which has the best mattress… The "lodge lady" gave a talk on emergency info, and tomorrow route itinerary. She mentioned we should walk the 20 minute loop hike tonight, if it clears, cause there's only been 3 "fine" days in the last 12. We cook a HUGE dinner: 4 tomatoes, 4 onions, 1.5lbs ground beef, and yams. It makes 3 big bowls, and Wendy eats ~2 of them. Then peanut butter & chocolate, and dried fruit with honey water. Quite satisfying after a big day on the trail. My pack should be lighter tomorrow…
Eventually we notice that the skies are clearing significantly, so we bundle up, and head out ~8:35pm (sunset is ~9:30pm).
We brave the cold wind, and follow the boardwalk up to the "hump"...
We catch some sunlight briefly, before the sun drops behind some clouds. Still, it's is very scenic up hear, and we have the whole "hump" to ourselves. No time to use the tripod, so I hauled 4lbs of gear on this trek for nothing… But still got some decent pics.
If you like rocks, and pretty sunsets across sub alpine terrain, this is a good place to visit...
Too bad this didn't stitch well. Boy was it well worth it to come up and visit this evening...
Fog rolls through, as we continue exploring the "Hump"...
Pink shades, and a sublime moment on the "Hump"...
Truly a spectacular location in NZ here on the Hump Ridge Track. It was just us on the hill this evening to witness this special place...
Pink skies as we make our way back...
One last look back this evening...
I'll plan on returning for sunrise tomorrow. No one else from the lodge came up tonight. One guy said, "Too cold." We're glad we brought our full cold weather gear on this trek (we almost didn't, as we haven't been needing it on other tracks). It's colder here than we thought. We wore rainpants, gaiters, and all our upper layers. Used my long johns as a scarf.
Back at the lodge, we share a $10 hot shower (4 minutes, and we time it JUST right). This is our 3rd to last night in NZ! Our bunk room has lights! These private lodges are nice. You can upgrade to a personal room for an extra $100/person, but we have our own room for the standard $65/person. The DOC Great Walk huts are a bit cheaper at $50/person, but you get more here, including porridge for breakfast (7:30am tomorrow). I might be on the mountain for sunrise tomorrow though… Sore legs after a tough climb today. 19km and 2900' gain, with a monster pack. Legs felt great this evening on the loop hike though. I flew up the steps. Time to review today's pics, and get cozy in my bag…